Friday, May 30, 2008
california dreamings
As it's going to take me a while to finish writing about my trip to the Philippines and it would be too confusing to intersperse entries about more current events with that trip, I have created a new blog: california dreamings. (I know, I know, one more blog to read...) There's not much on it right now (I just started it, and I'm already behind there, too), but you can check it out.
Monday, May 26, 2008
ifugao grandma
When we were at Batad, we dealt with young people at the inn--they must have been the kids of the owners. We didn't see the owners, but we did see their grandmother (or maybe it's their great grandmother). She was this old, bent, industrious woman who was always sweeping the yard. We saw her sweeping when we first got there. And we saw her at it again the day after we toured the village.
That day (April 6), we saw her sitting outside their house (next to the inn), half-naked. My companion went over and tried to talk to her even though they didn't speak the same language. I believe they talked about her tattoos. While Ifugao male elders tend to have tattoos marking their bravery, the women's tattoos were actually beauty marks. These tattoos are symbolic (e.g., a stalk or sheaf of rice), too, and the more a woman had, the more she was considered beautiful.
Here are pictures of the grandma tying together what looks like rice stalks, and another of her using it to sweep the floor. As you can see in the second picture, she is bent from the waist. That's actually not just because she's sweeping; she really is bent at the waist and walks almost with her face to the ground. And she's not the only old person that we saw who's bent like that. I guess the rice planting (or something) makes them have that posture.
Later on, I joined them. I told the grandma I wanted to take her picture, and I believe she was saying that she looked messy because she started to try and fix her hair. You can see her tattoos quite clearly in this picture. You can also see her wearing a good luck necklace. A necklace with just one of those pendants is already considered a good luck necklace, so her necklace must be even luckier as she has three of those pendants.
Later that afternoon, we saw her cleaning again. Probably not wanting to be ambushed again by picture-taking tourists like us, she had combed her hair, put on a headband, and put on a top and cardigan.
That day (April 6), we saw her sitting outside their house (next to the inn), half-naked. My companion went over and tried to talk to her even though they didn't speak the same language. I believe they talked about her tattoos. While Ifugao male elders tend to have tattoos marking their bravery, the women's tattoos were actually beauty marks. These tattoos are symbolic (e.g., a stalk or sheaf of rice), too, and the more a woman had, the more she was considered beautiful.
Here are pictures of the grandma tying together what looks like rice stalks, and another of her using it to sweep the floor. As you can see in the second picture, she is bent from the waist. That's actually not just because she's sweeping; she really is bent at the waist and walks almost with her face to the ground. And she's not the only old person that we saw who's bent like that. I guess the rice planting (or something) makes them have that posture.
Later on, I joined them. I told the grandma I wanted to take her picture, and I believe she was saying that she looked messy because she started to try and fix her hair. You can see her tattoos quite clearly in this picture. You can also see her wearing a good luck necklace. A necklace with just one of those pendants is already considered a good luck necklace, so her necklace must be even luckier as she has three of those pendants.Later that afternoon, we saw her cleaning again. Probably not wanting to be ambushed again by picture-taking tourists like us, she had combed her hair, put on a headband, and put on a top and cardigan.
Friday, May 23, 2008
batad aftermath
The day after the tour of Batad (on April 5), we did not do anything. That was part of the plan anyway, but after the tiring day of touring, we couldn't have done anything even if we wanted to. We had breakfast at a neighboring inn, and even that was a chore as we had to go up and down some high steps to get there. Needless to say, we ate at our inn the rest of the day. That day, we played cards and Boggle, slept, and people watched.
Saturday, May 10, 2008
batad children
During our Batad trek, we took a lot of pictures of local kids. These are some of the pictures, most of which were taken by my companion.
On the way to and in the village, we took these pictures. The two kids in the second picture were quite a ways from us, and they were watching a man--maybe their father--doing some work.
After going down to the village, we had to hike up the summit again before going down to Tappiah Falls. At the summit, there is a little resting place, where hikers can get some shade, buy some drinks or snacks, or just sit a while. When we got there in the morning, there was a woman there, a couple of teenage girls, and these kids. The bald-headed kid, in particular, was very playful. The first three pictures were taken in the morning. The fourth picture was taken in the afternoon, on our hike back.
On our hike up the terraces in the afternoon, we passed by this boy sleeping in this little lean-to.
Further along the way, we saw some villagers--including these kids--on one of the terraces. I believe their parents where clearing the terrace--burning and picking up the grass. The kids were friendly and playful.
When we got closer to the inn, there was another resting place/store. There were a bunch of kids there, and they were giving yellow daisies to the tourists. They were very cute. They acted shy when we were taking their pictures, but they also posed (the girls with the arms akimbo in the last picture--that was their pose). They enjoyed it when we showed them their pictures.
The Ifugao have a very distinct look, especially around the house. As you can see in these pictures, these kids are very cute. And friendly to boot.
On the way to and in the village, we took these pictures. The two kids in the second picture were quite a ways from us, and they were watching a man--maybe their father--doing some work.
After going down to the village, we had to hike up the summit again before going down to Tappiah Falls. At the summit, there is a little resting place, where hikers can get some shade, buy some drinks or snacks, or just sit a while. When we got there in the morning, there was a woman there, a couple of teenage girls, and these kids. The bald-headed kid, in particular, was very playful. The first three pictures were taken in the morning. The fourth picture was taken in the afternoon, on our hike back.
On our hike up the terraces in the afternoon, we passed by this boy sleeping in this little lean-to.Further along the way, we saw some villagers--including these kids--on one of the terraces. I believe their parents where clearing the terrace--burning and picking up the grass. The kids were friendly and playful.
When we got closer to the inn, there was another resting place/store. There were a bunch of kids there, and they were giving yellow daisies to the tourists. They were very cute. They acted shy when we were taking their pictures, but they also posed (the girls with the arms akimbo in the last picture--that was their pose). They enjoyed it when we showed them their pictures.
The Ifugao have a very distinct look, especially around the house. As you can see in these pictures, these kids are very cute. And friendly to boot.
ifugao stories
When we got back to our inn after the tiring trek to and from Batad Village and Tappiah Falls (April 4), we sat around a little on our balcony. That's when I remembered that we didn't look around the village. The guide--Pio--had told us the day before that he was going to tell us folklore, etc. when we're in the village. Since he didn't do that, I had him tell us stories right then.
We asked why traditional huts don't have windows. He said that it's to keep warm in the mountains, but also because they dry their grains in their huts (in the upper part of their huts, close to the roofs). Having windows would bring in cold air, and the grains would not dry correctly. Another reason may be (and this is said to be the reason these huts are on stilts) is so that the enemies would have a hard time entering. I've heard that, at night, they pull up their ladders and close their doors behind them.
Having stayed in a neo-traditional hut, I can't imagine staying in there without windows. It can get stuffy and claustrophobic. But I guess that's the point. People probably worked most of the day in the fields and went home to sleep. Or, if they were home, they probably did what I've seen present-day folks doing--which is to hang out in the stilt area under the huts.
We also asked why there some of the huts in the village are not made the traditional way--that is, they have tin roofs instead of grass. He said that people want to do it the easy way. They don't want to go trudging to the other mountains to get the grassy material when tin is so much easier to obtain and use. As someone who likes to maintain their traditions and sees that tradition as a tourist attraction, he lamented this sort of thinking.
We asked how the terraces came to be. Pio said that, according to his grandmother, the story goes like this: A couple of thousand years ago, there were two friends who lived in a village on the other side of the mountain. They came to this side of the mountain (where Batad is), and they made the first terrace on their own. They thought it was a good place to live, so they told the other villagers to come, too. The other villagers came, and they built the rest of the terraces. Pio said that tourists would often say that there must be concrete holding the stones together, but he always tells them to look closely. While there are a few concrete areas, those were put in more recently and are only on walking paths.
We asked about the hudhud, which are Ifugao chants or songs that are performed during harvesting, wakes, and other rituals. The hudhud tells of their folklore--heroes, culture, values--and can take 3 or 4 days to perform. It has been recognized by UNESCO as an "oral and intangible masterpiece." We asked if there was a specific time when people could witness the hudhud, but Pio said that the planting and harvesting are in turns, so they take weeks to finish. Women may sing the hudhud at any of these times, so there is not a date that one can necessarily pinpoint.
We asked about the planting. Pio said that one family--the one that owns the most terraces (right at the center of the village)--always starts the planting season. I believe he said that the man consults the mumbaki (Ifugao priest or medicine man) prior to the planting season or just after the last harvest about when would it would be best to start planting. The mumbaki also tells him what (animal) sacrifices he needs to make prior to planting. So, this ritual starts off the planting season, and each family in turn can plant their terraces. This family is also the first to harvest, and they have feast for the whole village.
We asked a few other questions, but this is what I remember. I hope I remembered them correctly.
We asked why traditional huts don't have windows. He said that it's to keep warm in the mountains, but also because they dry their grains in their huts (in the upper part of their huts, close to the roofs). Having windows would bring in cold air, and the grains would not dry correctly. Another reason may be (and this is said to be the reason these huts are on stilts) is so that the enemies would have a hard time entering. I've heard that, at night, they pull up their ladders and close their doors behind them.
Having stayed in a neo-traditional hut, I can't imagine staying in there without windows. It can get stuffy and claustrophobic. But I guess that's the point. People probably worked most of the day in the fields and went home to sleep. Or, if they were home, they probably did what I've seen present-day folks doing--which is to hang out in the stilt area under the huts.
We also asked why there some of the huts in the village are not made the traditional way--that is, they have tin roofs instead of grass. He said that people want to do it the easy way. They don't want to go trudging to the other mountains to get the grassy material when tin is so much easier to obtain and use. As someone who likes to maintain their traditions and sees that tradition as a tourist attraction, he lamented this sort of thinking.
We asked how the terraces came to be. Pio said that, according to his grandmother, the story goes like this: A couple of thousand years ago, there were two friends who lived in a village on the other side of the mountain. They came to this side of the mountain (where Batad is), and they made the first terrace on their own. They thought it was a good place to live, so they told the other villagers to come, too. The other villagers came, and they built the rest of the terraces. Pio said that tourists would often say that there must be concrete holding the stones together, but he always tells them to look closely. While there are a few concrete areas, those were put in more recently and are only on walking paths.We asked about the hudhud, which are Ifugao chants or songs that are performed during harvesting, wakes, and other rituals. The hudhud tells of their folklore--heroes, culture, values--and can take 3 or 4 days to perform. It has been recognized by UNESCO as an "oral and intangible masterpiece." We asked if there was a specific time when people could witness the hudhud, but Pio said that the planting and harvesting are in turns, so they take weeks to finish. Women may sing the hudhud at any of these times, so there is not a date that one can necessarily pinpoint.
We asked about the planting. Pio said that one family--the one that owns the most terraces (right at the center of the village)--always starts the planting season. I believe he said that the man consults the mumbaki (Ifugao priest or medicine man) prior to the planting season or just after the last harvest about when would it would be best to start planting. The mumbaki also tells him what (animal) sacrifices he needs to make prior to planting. So, this ritual starts off the planting season, and each family in turn can plant their terraces. This family is also the first to harvest, and they have feast for the whole village.
We asked a few other questions, but this is what I remember. I hope I remembered them correctly.
back in the usa
I'm back in the US, and I'm nowhere near with being done with blogging about the trip. Not sure that I'll have much time to finish it now, as I have other things I need to focus on. We'll see...
Monday, May 5, 2008
surviving batad
April 4 was the most physically taxing day of this vacation. The day before, we had made arrangements with the porter to be our guide for the day. We started out after breakfast at around 8:15-8:30am. The first order of the day was to go down to the village. These are pictures of the village taken from the inn.
We took the path from our inn and were soon walking along the walls of the rice terraces. We had quite a lot of stuff with us--our backpack with our change of clothes, a pot of rice, a tupperware of marinated chicken (for lunch), and plates, etc. Fortunately, the porter/guide carried most of our stuff. That was just as well because I had a hard enough time trying to walk with the walking stick. It didn't make it easier for me walk along the terraces or to go up and down the steps at all. As I don't have very good balance and we were often walking on narrow walkways, I had to look down to see where I was going. But as I'm afraid of heights, it wasn't easy having to looking down. So I walked closer to the paddy on the same height as the wall so that, if I fell, it would only be a few inches instead of a few feet.
We went down to the village, but we actually didn't look around. We rested, while our guide got a screen for our barbecuing and an itak (bolo knife). When I remembered at the end of the day and asked why we didn't really look around, the guide said that we were supposed to see the weaver, but she wasn't there. Plus, he saw that we were progressing slowly, and we needed to move on if we wanted to get to the waterfalls, our final destination.
So, we had to go back up the mountain, then down again to get to Tappiah Falls. We got there around 10:30. When we got there, our guide quickly proceeded to collect firewood to make into charcoal to use for barbecuing. After resting a while and taking in the scenery, we got into the cold water. We actually couldn't go close to the waterfalls, as the water is deep, and we can't swim. We sat around in the water and talked to a couple of people.
We got out of the water when we thought the chicken was ready. It wasn't quite ready so we watched while it was being grilled. That gave us time to dry up a little before we ate. It was a good picnic.
After lunch, we got back in the water before finally changing into our dry clothes. We just relaxed after that while waiting for our clothes to dry and for the sun to be on the other side of the mountain.
Throughout our time at the falls, we watched people. We saw:
It was actually an easier way back because we didn't have to go up and down the village. From the stopping point, we just had to walk across and up the terraces. But that didn't mean it was easier. We were tired, and the terraces were higher up (again, fear of heights). It took us about 2 hours to get back to the inn, and we were never so happy to see it.
We took the path from our inn and were soon walking along the walls of the rice terraces. We had quite a lot of stuff with us--our backpack with our change of clothes, a pot of rice, a tupperware of marinated chicken (for lunch), and plates, etc. Fortunately, the porter/guide carried most of our stuff. That was just as well because I had a hard enough time trying to walk with the walking stick. It didn't make it easier for me walk along the terraces or to go up and down the steps at all. As I don't have very good balance and we were often walking on narrow walkways, I had to look down to see where I was going. But as I'm afraid of heights, it wasn't easy having to looking down. So I walked closer to the paddy on the same height as the wall so that, if I fell, it would only be a few inches instead of a few feet.
We went down to the village, but we actually didn't look around. We rested, while our guide got a screen for our barbecuing and an itak (bolo knife). When I remembered at the end of the day and asked why we didn't really look around, the guide said that we were supposed to see the weaver, but she wasn't there. Plus, he saw that we were progressing slowly, and we needed to move on if we wanted to get to the waterfalls, our final destination.
So, we had to go back up the mountain, then down again to get to Tappiah Falls. We got there around 10:30. When we got there, our guide quickly proceeded to collect firewood to make into charcoal to use for barbecuing. After resting a while and taking in the scenery, we got into the cold water. We actually couldn't go close to the waterfalls, as the water is deep, and we can't swim. We sat around in the water and talked to a couple of people.
We got out of the water when we thought the chicken was ready. It wasn't quite ready so we watched while it was being grilled. That gave us time to dry up a little before we ate. It was a good picnic.After lunch, we got back in the water before finally changing into our dry clothes. We just relaxed after that while waiting for our clothes to dry and for the sun to be on the other side of the mountain.
Throughout our time at the falls, we watched people. We saw:
- foreigners soaking in the sun--some in their undies--on the rocks. They soon left after we got there
- local boys/teens spearing tiny fishes. The fishes were so tiny (the size of anchovies) that they could have hardly been worth the effort. But I guess it was fun for them. And they later grilled these.
- an elderly woman (with, perhaps, her son or grandson) carrying sacks down from the mountain. These contained drinks which they put in the river to cool. Can you imagine bringing those drinks up and down the mountain day in and day out? The boy quickly joined the other local kids, while the woman watched the drinks.
- a tourist shampooing his hair (twice) after soaking in the water (that's him in the picture). We thought that was funny.
- a woman puffing away at her cigarettes even though she could barely make it down to the falls (we had passed by her resting on the steps on the way down)
- a number of groups who came down, swam a little, then left
- a huge group of people (including old people) who just came down, took a couple of pictures, and went back up. People often do Batad as a day trip, and I suppose that's what they were doing. I think they're crazy!
It was actually an easier way back because we didn't have to go up and down the village. From the stopping point, we just had to walk across and up the terraces. But that didn't mean it was easier. We were tired, and the terraces were higher up (again, fear of heights). It took us about 2 hours to get back to the inn, and we were never so happy to see it.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
on to batad
We had decided that we weren't gonna do anything on April 3 except stay at the inn. For the first couple of mornings that we had been there, we weren't able to use the back view deck for breakfast as other guests got there first. So, on this third morning, we wanted to make sure we got there first so we could stay there all day. We got up very early and staked our claim to the view deck.
However, in the middle of the morning, the inn caretaker told us that the jeepney was going back to Saddle Point in Batad to pick up the guests that had gone there the day before. Though we were supposed to stay at the inn for a third night and were set on doing nothing for the day, we decided to ride with the jeepney. Why you might ask? Well, there is public transportation to Batad, but only to the junction. There is only one trip a day that goes to Saddle Point, the closest point to Batad itself to which vehicles could get. Saddle Point is at least an hour's walk from the junction, and is Batad is at least a 45-minute walk from Saddle Point. As we had stuff to carry, we definitely wanted to avoid that hour walk from the junction to Saddle Point. Fortunately, the inn allowed us to leave most of our stuff there so we only took the stuff we needed.
After quickly packing our stuff (the stuff we were bringing with us and those we were leaving), we waited for a jeepney to take us to Banaue town center, which is where the jeepney going to Batad would be waiting. The jeepney that we saw coming towards the inn from the other side of the mountain actually wasn't for passengers; it had already been hired by a group of Filipino tourists. We and a couple who were also guests at the inn still hailed it anyway; we asked if we could hitch a ride as close to town as possible. They agreed (we did have to give some money to the driver). We were dropped off close enough to town so we could easily take a tricycle the rest of the way.
It was a bumpy ride to Batad, much bumpier than in Banaue. The roads were even less paved than in Banaue, and they were closer to the cliffs. I could barely stay on my seat--how do people stay seated on the roof?
When I saw how far Saddle Point really is from the junction, I was glad we didn't have to do that walk. At Saddle Point, it turns out there were porters who could help us carry our stuff. Thank goodness. I rented a walking stick, and we began the hot and tiring walk to the inn.
I was glad when we got to the inn. Not that there was anything fancy waiting for us. The accommodations were very basic--no electric fans, toilets and showers outside. But look at our view from our bed! 
After having lunch, we had cold showers (very cold--must be mountain water) and took a nap. When we woke up to have dinner, there was a brown out. So we had dinner in the dark (save for a couple of lamps), but it gave us an opportunity to enjoy the fireflies. Afterwards, there really wasn't much to do but sleep.
During dinner, we also saw the stars. When we woke up in the middle of the night, the stars were even more numerable. And they seemed close enough to touch. That was cool.
However, in the middle of the morning, the inn caretaker told us that the jeepney was going back to Saddle Point in Batad to pick up the guests that had gone there the day before. Though we were supposed to stay at the inn for a third night and were set on doing nothing for the day, we decided to ride with the jeepney. Why you might ask? Well, there is public transportation to Batad, but only to the junction. There is only one trip a day that goes to Saddle Point, the closest point to Batad itself to which vehicles could get. Saddle Point is at least an hour's walk from the junction, and is Batad is at least a 45-minute walk from Saddle Point. As we had stuff to carry, we definitely wanted to avoid that hour walk from the junction to Saddle Point. Fortunately, the inn allowed us to leave most of our stuff there so we only took the stuff we needed.
After quickly packing our stuff (the stuff we were bringing with us and those we were leaving), we waited for a jeepney to take us to Banaue town center, which is where the jeepney going to Batad would be waiting. The jeepney that we saw coming towards the inn from the other side of the mountain actually wasn't for passengers; it had already been hired by a group of Filipino tourists. We and a couple who were also guests at the inn still hailed it anyway; we asked if we could hitch a ride as close to town as possible. They agreed (we did have to give some money to the driver). We were dropped off close enough to town so we could easily take a tricycle the rest of the way.
It was a bumpy ride to Batad, much bumpier than in Banaue. The roads were even less paved than in Banaue, and they were closer to the cliffs. I could barely stay on my seat--how do people stay seated on the roof?
When I saw how far Saddle Point really is from the junction, I was glad we didn't have to do that walk. At Saddle Point, it turns out there were porters who could help us carry our stuff. Thank goodness. I rented a walking stick, and we began the hot and tiring walk to the inn.
I was glad when we got to the inn. Not that there was anything fancy waiting for us. The accommodations were very basic--no electric fans, toilets and showers outside. But look at our view from our bed! 
After having lunch, we had cold showers (very cold--must be mountain water) and took a nap. When we woke up to have dinner, there was a brown out. So we had dinner in the dark (save for a couple of lamps), but it gave us an opportunity to enjoy the fireflies. Afterwards, there really wasn't much to do but sleep.
During dinner, we also saw the stars. When we woke up in the middle of the night, the stars were even more numerable. And they seemed close enough to touch. That was cool.
banaue faces
This trip is as much about travelling as it is about taking pictures. My companion and I are taking this opportunity to practice our photography skills, though I'm really too impatient to get all fancy about it. Though I'm more into taking scenery pictures, I took my friend's lead and began taking some people pictures.On the left is a picture of a vendor at the marketplace. She is chewing betel nut that many people in Banaue chew.
Below are individual pictures of the elderly Ifugaos in traditional costumes. I didn't really bother with having them pose apart from the others or to edit the pictures.
While most of the elders were all together near where the buses and other vehicles park, this old man stood separately. He was further in, where you can see the rice terraces behind him. He was also close to a traditional Ifugao hut. It was interesting because he was speaking to us in English. We would speak to him in Tagalog while the guide would talk to him in Ifugao, but he wouldn't respond. Maybe he couldn't hear us, but when he would speak, he would speak in English.
around banaue
After looking at the rice terraces, we headed to town for lunch. In town, we saw these bundles of rice being dried on the streets. They are being dried before being sent for milling.
We also saw this traditional house adorned with carabao (water buffalo) skulls. According to a guest at the inn, these skulls are a sign of wealth as carabaos are rare in the mountains (hard to bring up the mountain). We don't know if that's true or not, but every time we see a carabao, or even a cow, my companion says "big time."We then went to the hanging bridge. I'm not good with heights so I only made it part of the way before going back. Nice view from the bridge, though.
Afterwards, we climbed up to Banaue Museum, which is run by the descendants of American anthropologist H. Otley Beyer. We saw old pictures and artifacts, but not too many labels to provide context. These pages from a book at the museum provide some information about the rice terraces:
It was tiring climbing up to the museum, but it did have a nice view of the town and its surroundings.
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